Watches for Men and Women: Features and Specifications Guide
al was, nodding like, “Oh yeah, of course, sapphire” while secretly Googling under the counter.
If that’s you right now, you’re in the right place.
Over the last few years, I’ve tested everything from $40 beaters to a borrowed (and slightly terrifying) Rolex that I was afraid to even breathe on. Along the way, I learned what actually matters in a watch for both men and women – and what’s just marketing glitter.
This guide breaks down the features and specs that genuinely matter when you’re shopping for a watch, whether it’s your first everyday piece or the next step in your collection.
1. Quartz vs Automatic vs Smart: Picking the Right Engine
When I tested my first automatic watch, I kept staring at the sweeping seconds hand like some kind of horology hypnotist. It just felt… alive.
Quartz (Battery-powered)
What it is: A battery sends electricity through a quartz crystal that vibrates at a precise frequency (32,768 times per second). The movement counts those vibrations and moves the hands. Pros:- Extremely accurate (usually +/- 15 seconds per month)
- Low maintenance (battery every 2–5 years)
- Usually cheaper and thinner
- Less “soul” for watch nerds
- Battery changes can be annoying if the caseback isn’t easy to open
In my experience, quartz is perfect if you want a reliable daily watch and don’t care about mechanical romance.
Automatic / Mechanical
What it is: Gears, springs, and no battery. Your wrist movement winds the mainspring, which powers the watch. Mechanical = hand-wound; automatic = self-winding. Pros:- Craftsmanship and heritage – this is the stuff collectors geek out over
- No battery to replace
- That smooth seconds hand sweep (usually 6–10 ticks per second)
- Less accurate (often +/- 5–20 seconds per day unless it’s highly regulated)
- Needs servicing every 5–10 years, and that’s not cheap
- Can stop if unworn for a couple of days
When I started rotating a few automatic watches, I realized something: you don’t just wear them, you interact with them. You wind them, you set them, you baby them a little.
Smartwatches
What it is: A tiny wearable computer strapped to your wrist. Pros:- Fitness tracking, notifications, GPS, contactless payments
- Highly customizable look (watch faces, bands)
- Great if your phone is always buzzing
- Battery life measured in days, not years
- Depreciates fast, like a mini smartphone
- Can feel more like a gadget than jewelry
A 2020 report from Counterpoint Research estimated that Apple shipped over 30 million Apple Watches in 2019, more than the entire Swiss watch industry shipped wristwatches that year – which tells you how mainstream wrist tech has become.
If you’re choosing between the three, I usually suggest this:
- Everyday practicality: Quartz or smartwatch
- Style + long-term love: Automatic or mechanical
2. Case Size, Shape, and How It Actually Feels on the Wrist
When I first ordered a 44 mm watch online, I thought, “Bigger = more presence, right?” Then it arrived, and it looked like a dinner plate strapped to a toothpick.
Case Diameter
Typical ranges (not rules, just reality):
- Women’s watches: ~26–36 mm (but many women rock 38–40 mm effortlessly)
- Men’s watches: ~38–44 mm
Instead of obsessing over gender labels, I go by wrist size:
- Under 6 inches (15.2 cm): 34–38 mm tends to look balanced
- 6–7 inches (15.2–17.8 cm): 36–41 mm is the sweet spot
- Over 7 inches (17.8+ cm): 40–44 mm usually works well
Lug-to-Lug: The Most Underrated Spec
When I tested a supposedly “small” 39 mm pilot watch, it still overhung my wrist. The problem wasn’t diameter – it was lug-to-lug (distance from top lug to bottom lug).
- Under 48 mm lug-to-lug tends to wear comfortably on most wrists
- Over 50 mm starts feeling big unless you’ve got a larger wrist
If a brand lists lug-to-lug, I pay more attention to that than diameter now.
Thickness
This is huge for comfort:
- Dress watches: ~6–10 mm (slips under a cuff)
- Dive/sport watches: 11–15 mm (taller, chunkier)
I tried wearing a 15 mm diver under a slim shirt once. The cuff literally got stuck and stayed there like it had given up on life.
3. Crystal: What Protects the Dial (And Why Sapphire Is Hyped)
The crystal is the transparent cover over your watch face. I’ve scratched one badly on a metal door handle, and trust me, you only need that experience once to start caring about this.
Acrylic (Plastic)
- Found on many vintage pieces and some cheap modern watches
- Scratches easily but you can polish it out with products like Polywatch
- Warm, vintage look and shatter-resistant
Mineral Glass
- Tempered glass used in many affordable watches
- More scratch-resistant than acrylic, less than sapphire
- Scratches are basically permanent
Sapphire Crystal
- Extremely scratch-resistant; only diamond and a few materials are harder
- Used by brands like Rolex, Omega, and many mid-tier brands now
- Can be more reflective unless it has anti-reflective (AR) coating
A 2019 piece from the New York Times explained how synthetic sapphire has become the standard for higher-end watches because of its hardness and durability.
If you’re buying a watch you want to keep looking clean for years, sapphire is worth paying extra for in my experience.
4. Water Resistance: What Those Numbers Really Mean
I once saw “30 m water resistant” and thought, “Cool, I can swim with this.” Yeah… no.
Here’s the rough translation:
- 30 m / 3 ATM: Handwashing, light rain. No swimming.
- 50 m / 5 ATM: Shower (not recommended), maybe light surface swimming.
- 100 m / 10 ATM: Swimming, snorkeling – this is where I personally feel safe for regular water use.
- 200 m / 20 ATM and above: Diving, serious water sports.
ISO 6425 is the international standard for dive watches, requiring at least 100 m water resistance plus specific tests (saltwater, condensation, visibility). Brands like Seiko and Citizen follow these standards on their dive lines.
If you’re the “leave it on 24/7” type – including in the pool – aim for 100 m or more. Those tiny screw-down crowns actually do something.
5. Straps and Bracelets: Where Comfort Lives or Dies
I’ve had watches that looked amazing in photos and then spent all day trying not to rip them off because the strap was stiff, sweaty, or just wrong.
Common Options
- Leather: Dressy, classic, but hates water. Great for office or evening wear.
- Metal Bracelet (Steel/Titanium): Durable, versatile, can be resized. I love bracelet watches for everyday use.
- Rubber / Silicone: Sporty, sweat-proof, comfy for workouts and summer.
- NATO / Fabric Straps: Affordable, super comfy, easy to swap, and can change the whole vibe of a watch.
For men and women, strap width matters aesthetically:
- 18–20 mm: Usually suits smaller wrists and more delicate watches
- 20–22 mm: Common for sportier, larger watches
When I started swapping straps, I realized one watch could play three different roles: leather for work, NATO for weekends, rubber for the beach.
6. Features That Actually Matter Day-to-Day
Date and Day-Date
Sounds basic, but I miss it when it’s not there. Just know:
- On some mechanical movements, you shouldn’t change the date around 9 pm–3 am (the gears can be engaged and you risk damage).
Chronograph (Stopwatch)
I used to think chronographs were just for pilots and race car drivers. Then I started timing pasta, parking meters, and workout rests with them.
Just be aware:
- Mechanical chronographs are thicker and more expensive
- Quartz chronographs are cheaper and easier to live with
GMT / Dual Time
If you travel a lot or have family in another time zone, a GMT hand is a lifesaver. Brands like Rolex (GMT-Master II) and Seiko popularized this feature, but plenty of affordable options exist now.
Smart Features (On Traditional-Looking Watches)
Some brands (like Garmin and Withings) blend analog style with hidden smart tech – step counting, heart rate, even sleep tracking.
I tested a hybrid once and loved that it didn’t scream "tech bro" in meetings but still buzzed when I got calls.
7. Men’s vs Women’s Watches: What Actually Changes
Marketing departments love gender labels; your wrist doesn’t care.
What usually differs:- Size: Women’s lines are often smaller, sometimes too small to read comfortably.
- Design: More gems, more sparkle, more pastel colors on women’s models.
- Targeted styling: Men’s often lean toward tool/sport aesthetics; women’s toward jewelry.
I’ve seen women absolutely own a 40 mm diver and guys rock a 36 mm dress watch. The real questions are:
- Does it feel comfortable?
- Do you actually like how it looks on you?
- Can you read it at a glance?
A 2019 Forbes piece on watch trends noted a clear rise in women buying “men’s” sports watches and unisex models, especially from brands like Rolex and Omega. The gender line in watches is getting pretty blurry – and I think that’s a good thing.
8. Price vs Value: Where to Spend and Where to Save
When I bought my first nicer watch, I blew most of the budget on brand prestige… and then realized I’d ignored half the specs that actually affect daily enjoyment.
Where it’s usually worth paying a bit more:
- Sapphire crystal
- Solid bracelet with decent clasp
- Reliable movement (Swiss, Japanese, or respected in-house)
- Real water resistance (100 m or better if you’re active)
Where you can save:
- Paying purely for the logo
- Over-the-top complications you’ll never use
- Diamonds and bling on entry-level watches (often low quality but high markup)
The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics has tracked luxury goods price increases over the last decade, and watches have definitely climbed, especially from big Swiss brands. That’s why mid-range brands and even microbrands have become such strong value options.
In my experience, a well-specced $300–$700 watch can give you 90% of the function and joy of something much pricier, especially if you’re not chasing status symbols.
9. Quick Buying Checklist (Stuff I Actually Look At Now)
When I’m evaluating a watch for myself or a friend, I run through this mentally:
- Does the size (diameter + lug-to-lug) match the wrist?
- What’s the movement (quartz, automatic, smart) and does it fit the person’s lifestyle?
- Crystal: Is it sapphire or at least mineral?
- Water resistance: 50 m minimum, 100 m if they swim a lot.
- Does the strap or bracelet feel comfortable and easy to adjust?
- Are the features (date, GMT, chrono, smart) something they’ll actually use?
- Can I find trusted reviews and clear specs from the brand?
Once you’ve answered those, the last question is honestly the most important: Does this watch make you smile when you glance at your wrist?
If it does – and the specs aren’t a disaster – that’s usually your answer.
Sources
- "How to Buy a Watch" – New York Times – Overview of key watch features and buying considerations.
- ISO 6425:2018 – Divers' Watches Standard – Technical requirements for dive watch water resistance and durability.
- "Apple Watch Overtakes Swiss Watch Industry" – BBC – Report on smartwatch vs Swiss watch shipments.
- "Why Sapphire Crystal Is the Gold Standard for Watch Glass" – Rolex – Brand explanation and specs using sapphire crystal.
- Consumer Price Index – U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics – Data showing long-term price trends, including luxury goods like watches.
